The Reel Deal
Eric Rinadli’s Catch Of The Day Continues To Lure Midday Crowds At La Pêcherie.
I THOROUGHLY TAKE PLEASURE in the art of eating in good company and tend to be more enticed by mouthwatering conversation than what’s on the plate in front of me. A lunch at La Pêcherie U Luvassu, at 8 Quai l’Hirondelle, was an exception.
It began with the first mouthful of bluefin tuna tartar. It happened again with the bluefi n tuna rillettes and yet again with the sea bream royale raw sashimi. Next to me Sami Ben Slama, who runs the restaurant’s day-to-day operations, was grinning at my reaction. “It is the taste of luxury, right? And it was all caught by Eric.” He’s referring to his business partner Eric Rinaldi, “the last fisherman in Monaco.” By the time most of us take our first sip of morning coffee, this fourth-generation Monegasque pêcheur has been out at sea for hours in search of the catch of the day.
In spring 2020, seafood import-export expert Sami and Eric launched U Luvassu (translated from Monegasque patois as Mediterranean sea bass, known for its cleverness). With turnover more than tripling in three years, they have become the largest fishery in southeastern France. It is easy to see why. The fishmonger offers a lunch spot terrace steps from the Monaco Yacht Club, both a call and collect service and free delivery service in Monaco, as well as wholesale activity for professionals. Private chefs and yachts are their biggest clients. Inside their high-tech shop, refrigerated zones are dedicated to each phase of the fishing process, from cleaning filleting and vacuum packing to smoking and curing, as well as the ability to flash freeze. Their team is accustomed to operate worldwide port delivery. The Rinaldi name is legendary along the ports of the French Riviera, synonymous with traditions, impeccable fishing quality and respect for resources.
Eric’s father André—a ectionately known as Dédé—taught him how to observe the sea and the reactions of fish. By age 7, young Eric was casting and lived for sunny mornings when he could fi sh before school. At 16 he o cially became a crew member on his father’s blue boat while pursuing his studies. Some days Eric is o shore for twenty hours doing what he does best: seasonal fishing for tuna, swordfish and other deep-sea fi sh. As the O cial Supplier to the Prince of Monaco, U Luvassu has a strict Boat-to-Plate traceability and the products come from responsible and sustainable sources, guaranteed wild and fi shed by small traditional day boats. “Truly fresh fish is a luxury that everyone should be able to experience,” says Sami. “And for us, it is all about the customer and conviviality. When you eat here, there is no ‘vous.’”
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