The More The Marius

WHEN I RECEIVED a heartfelt message from a friend saying she couldn’t remember the last time she’d enjoyed a relaxed meal so much, I was truly touched. I too cherished our long, leisurely lunch at Marius Monaco, but I know the true quality of the afternoon had little to do with me and everything to do with the exceptional dining experience we encountered.

Monaco’s newest Provençal restaurant occupies the former spot of the legendary Stars’N’Bars. While some things haven’t changed—such as the formidable Annette Anderson, part of the three-person team that ran Stars’N’Bars, greeting us at the door, along with her former boss, Didier Rubiolo, now a part-owner of Marius, floating around with his signature scarf casually tied around his neck—the restaurant’s interior is barely recognizable. The main bar remains, but the giant TV screens have been replaced with simple wood, terracotta, and marble, and the space is filled with light that bounces off the mirrored panels in the ceiling.

Annette ushered us into a small, cozy room off the main bar area, where we settled into comfy chairs at a table overlooking the port. And then, the gastronomic journey, meticulously curated by Michelin-starred chef Sébastien Sanjou, began.

Marius, derived from the Latin mare, meaning “sea,” is a tribute to the Mediterranean and its Provençal traditions, emphasizing the sharing of fresh, local produce among family and friends. Sébastien, a fifth-generation restaurateur who was named Young Talent of the Year in 2006 and earned his first Michelin star seven years later, envisioned creating an auberge in the heart of Monaco, where the main dish arrives on a single platter and is ceremoniously shared among diners.

With 22 years as head chef at the Relais des Moines in the Var, Sébastien was perfectly positioned to bring Provençal cuisine—known for its honest, simple flavors—to one of the world’s most sophisticated culinary hotspots.

Our first taste of Provence came in the form of an amuse-bouche offered by the chef: a duck, almond, and prune pâté served with a jar of pickled vegetables to share among the three of us. But as soon as I tasted the sweet, crunchy concoction, which paired so well with the rich pâté and the brown, gritty bread, I wasn’t so keen to pass it around, if truth be told!

This was followed by poached egg sautéed with mushrooms and wine—a brilliant combination which I’ll definitely be trying at home. (Fortunately, we were each given our own egg—not sure how we would have shared that one…)

Next up came a plate of sea bream, accompanied by a Monegasque take on Provence’s famous aioli—the garlicky mayonnaise traditionally served with fish and vegetables. Marius’ aioli was laced with citrus zest, a mind-blowing mix that complemented the delicate sea bream perfectly.

There was nothing delicate about the next course, the epitome of honest, hearty Provençal food: daube de bœuf, a slow-cooked beef stew served with lentils and a good old green salad. And just when we thought we couldn’t possibly fit in another bite, our very attentive waitress brought out three individual chocolate soufflés that literally oozed liquid cocoa as the spoon sliced into them. It was sooooo delicious that, despite our protests of being too full to eat another mouthful, the bowls were practically spotless by the end of the meal.

Sébastien recently mentioned in an interview that when he thinks back to sharing meals with his family as a young boy, “the word happiness comes to mind.” And that’s exactly how I felt at the end of the meal at Marius. Very full, yes, but incredibly happy. Judging by my friend’s SMS, I’d say it was a happiness shared.

Marius Monaco +377 97 97 95 95.
Business lunch €29 (weekly menu posted online). Monday-Saturday, lunch and dinner.

By Suzanna Chambers

Senior Editor

Suzanna is a former Fleet Street journalist who worked for The Sunday Times, The Telegraph, the Mail on Sunday and the Independent. She has lived in France for 20 years where she has carved a freelance career writing for UK, US and local publications. Meanwhile, her day job sees her leading the Communication, Marketing and Press team at Top Marques Monaco, a role she has held for ten years.