The Art Of Cleaning One’s Plate

EATING OUT UNDER THE FIERCE Monaco sun at lunchtime can often feel more punishing than pleasurable. But not when it comes to Zia at Odyssey. This pop-up restaurant has sprung to life in the shaded, verdant oasis beside the pool at the Hotel Metropole—and it’s turning midday dining into something worth lingering over.

Zia—meaning “aunt” in Italian—opened at the beginning of May, shortly after the five-star hotel emerged from a period of refurbishment. True to its name, the welcome we received was as warm and generous as a visit to your favorite aunt. Surrounded by lush greenery, the setting feels cozy and welcoming—more like a secret garden than a hotel restaurant.

From the moment we sat down, the tone was set—our table nestled between two graceful ventilators, quietly doing their job and making all the difference in the midday heat. The gentle breeze, aimed just-so at the three of us, was the first of many thoughtful touches—the kind of care only the kindest zia might show when family members drop by.

What made it all the more remarkable was that the team at Zia at Odyssey didn’t know us from Adam. I’m not sure why I was so struck by the level of care. I had previously dined at another of the Hotel Metropole’s restaurants, the two Michelin-star Les Ambassadeurs by Christophe Cussac, and their service had left me speechless. I hadn’t expected the same attentiveness from a poolside pop-up. But Zia at Odyssey defied those assumptions completely. This was five-star service through and through, delivered with warmth that made us feel genuinely cared for.

And all that praise came before anything had even touched our lips. Things began with a refreshing mixed juice and an amuse-bouche of parmesan and basil gnocchi—a simple but flavor-packed start. Then came a series of fresh, original dishes, including a standout ceviche of sea bream, marinated to perfection with mint, coriander, and cucumber pickles (€28). It was wonderfully cooling—like a grown-up version of ice cream on a scorching day.

Next came one of Zia’s signature dishes, though not one you’d immediately associate with a five-star hotel: pizza. Cooked in the outdoor oven by Manon Santini and Rocco Seminara, both former Hotel de Paris chefs. The version we tried was a pared-back blend of pecorino, parmesan, and black pepper (€26). The verdict? Delicious, thanks in part to the dough, made from a mix of selected flour and seeds, with just a small amount of yeast to keep it light and easy to digest. For those after something more decadent, there’s also a €295 version—yes, you read that right—topped with goat’s cheese, avocado, and 50 grams of Kristal caviar.

Thanks to the delicate dough, and the equally delicate breeze from the fans, we managed to keep going, even in the 30°C heat, when eating is usually the last thing on your mind. For mains, we shared Ravioli alla Parmigiana (€30)—a brilliant fusion of two of my best-loved Italian classics: ravioli stuffed with bufala mozzarella, confit of aubergine, and a parmesan cream. This was paired with perfectly-grilled octopus, served alongside baby potatoes and a rich primavera sauce (€41).

The pièce de resistance—as it should do—came at the end: a Pizzetta prepared by Marion, who, in 2019, was crowned none other than World Dessert Pizza Champion. This unexpected delight was the perfect finale to a perfect lunch—not overly rich, but so packed with taste it was impossible not to finish. Imagine a calzone-style pizza, filled with strawberry and vanilla confit and Sicilian pistachio cream, then topped with caramelized nuts and delicate slivers of strawberry (€29).

Had I been able to fit in anything else, I would have gone for the affogato—a treat I rarely allow myself, especially one served with praline almonds and a generous swirl of cream. But I’ve promised myself I’ll be back later this summer, just for that.

Zia at Odyssey is open every day (including for external guests) for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, from Wednesday to Sunday. There’s also an aperitivo hour from 5pm to 8pm, where cocktails and mocktails can be enjoyed overlooking the Karl Lagerfeld–designed pool. Yet another reason to return.

Zia at Odyssey
Hotel Metropole Monte Carlo
4 Avenue de la Madone, Monaco

By Suzanna Chambers

Suzanna is a former Fleet Street journalist who worked for The Sunday Times, The Telegraph, the Mail on Sunday and the Independent. She has lived in France for 20 years where she has carved a freelance career writing for UK, US and local publications. Meanwhile, her day job sees her leading the Communication, Marketing and Press team at Top Marques Monaco, a role she has held for ten years.