Sister Act

FINDING THE PERFECT LUNCH spot in Monaco is no easy feat. Authentic, home-cooked food, a charming setting, and reasonable prices rarely come together in the Principality. Enter Maison Sœurs, the new restaurant from sisters Gwendoline Pillai and Ilona Dumas, tucked away on a picturesque, cobbled street just a stone’s throw from the Prince’s Palace in Monaco-Ville.

If, like me, you are based near the Jardin Exotique, it may not be the most convenient address, but it more than justifies the detour. On a recent visit, the outdoor terrace was buzzing, framed by the Cathedral in the background, with a number of familiar faces seated at the outside tables. Maison Sœurs has clearly already found its place - and its clientele - in the local dining scene.

Gwendoline showed us to our table, genuine pride written all over her face, like a mother introducing someone to her newborn for the very first time. As soon as we were settled, she brought over some homemade pizzas as a little appetizer - a perfect, bite-sized taste that set the tone beautifully for the rest of the meal.

Gwendoline and her sister Ilona opened Maison Sœurs earlier this year, after more than 18 months searching for the perfect venue. In truth, the idea had been percolating for much longer; running restaurants is very much in their blood.

As Gwendoline explains, “We grew up in a family of shopkeepers in La Condamine: between our grandfather’s restaurant, our father’s restaurant, and our mother’s shoe shop. We often did our homework in the back office or directly in the restaurant, so the world of hospitality has always been part of our daily lives. Working together with my sister Ilona has always been an obvious choice. We are very complementary and close, which makes this adventure all the more special.”

Family spirit radiates from every corner of Maison Sœurs, and that extends to the daily specials, which sit alongside the regular pasta, pizza, and salad menus - about five choices of each. The specials are listed on boards placed around the courtyard - on our visit, one was tucked into a flowerpot against a small tree. When we asked what to try - from Piedmontese charcuterie (€9) to a tin of spicy “Pollastrini” sardines (€13) for starters, and Parmigiana d’aubergine (€19) to the sisters’ own take on moules-frites (€23) for mains—we were guided towards dishes that clearly meant a lot to Gwendoline and Ilona.

My dining companion chose the Burrantina et salade Méchouia (€21), a dish the sisters’ grandmother, a Pied-Noir of Spanish origin, used to prepare: a huge ball of creamy Burrata that oozed into a bed of plump grilled tomatoes and red peppers layered below. I opted for the Calamars sautés et caponata (€25)—succulent, perfectly cooked calamars served on a bed of aubergine, olives, and capers.

Next came the dessert board, with just five choices, each sounding completely irresistible. What I loved most about Maison Sœurs was this approach: a carefully curated menu, small but showcasing family recipes, all clearly prepared fresh that very day. I couldn’t resist a personal favorite of mine in any Italian restaurant, Tiramisu di Pepina - and it was just the right consistency (not always easy to get right!). My friend went for the chocolate mousse, which arrived in a big bowl, just as it might have been served in the sisters’ grandmother’s house, brought straight to the table. There was a twist which I couldn’t help wondering what their grandmother would have made of - the mousse was drizzled with olive oil and sprinkled with sea salt. Once we got over the idea of olive oil in sacred chocolate mousse, the taste was nothing short of sensational, and I think granny would have approved!

As we both had to rush back to work, we skipped coffee, but we agreed we’d definitely be back. Maison Sœurs is perfect for a mid-week lunch, yet I can easily imagine it becoming a regular spot for evening meals, too, with a beautifully decorated interior for cold winter nights.

With non-stop service from 11:30am to 11pm every day except Sunday, it’s a place to enjoy great food, thoughtful choices, and affordable prices. And from the number of people I knew eating on the terrace, I’d say that Maison Sœurs has already won plenty of hearts in Monaco.

Maison Sœurs
6/8 Rue Emile de Loth
+377 99 92 11 19

By Suzanna Chambers

Senior Editor

Suzanna is a former Fleet Street journalist who worked for The Sunday Times, The Telegraph, the Mail on Sunday and the Independent. She has lived in France for 20 years where she has carved a freelance career writing for UK, US and local publications. Meanwhile, her day job sees her leading the Communication, Marketing and Press team at Top Marques Monaco, a role she has held for ten years.