Posh Nosh

AS A BRIT LIVING in the South of France for a number of years, I was both curious and intrigued when I heard a British-inspired restaurant was coming to Monaco. In my experience, French friends aren’t exactly kind when it comes to English cuisine—in fact, I’d say they can be downright rude! “What even is English cuisine?” I’ve been asked countless times. “Apart from meat with fruit compote?” is another favorite.

So, you can imagine my surprise when I learned that the legendary Monte-Carlo Société des Bains de Mer, with its collection of five-star dining establishments, had decided to open Marlow on the new 6-hectare Mareterra land extension.

The setting of Marlow is undeniably fit for a king—or prince, in this case. Located on the recently inaugurated Place Princesse Gabriella, the restaurant boasts stunning (very un-British) views of the Mediterranean and the new port, right at the heart of the Mareterra district. The interiors are also stunning. The work of French Mexican architect Hugo Toro, who was tasked with designing a restaurant which reflects both British sophistication and the art of Mediterranean living.

As soon as I entered the sun-filled restaurant, with its wall-to-ceiling windows and large, comfortable seating around marble-topped tables, I felt my shoulders relax in the warm and peaceful environment. Mr. Toro earns a tick for mission accomplished.

My eyes were immediately drawn to the imperial-looking bar, which boasts around 20 types of gin, as well as British favorites like Guinness and an impressive selection of single malt whisky. Guests are welcome to sit at the bar at any time of day for a coffee, a pot of tea, or one of the many British cocktails available, such as the White Negroni or Mandarin Sour.

As I was just popping in for a quick bite between work meetings, I made a mental note to return after work to try the cocktails. But for now, I chose a Scotch egg that was, without a doubt, the best I’ve ever had. It was a far cry from the Tesco Scotch eggs that were a picnic staple back in England. Of course, at €18 per egg, it was a little more than the €2.75 for two from the supermarket, but then again, I suppose at Marlow, you’re not just paying for the food—you’re also paying for the view.

Marlow’s USP in a principality packed with Michelin-star restaurants is that it offers British favorites like Beef Wellington and Guinness and Chicken Pie with a Mediterranean twist. Deputy CEO, Albert Manzone, explained: “This new maison concept has been created to appeal to the largely English-speaking clientele of the new Monégasque district, but also of course to Monégasque residents, as well as visitors to the Principality.”

The breakfast menu is undoubtedly British, a full “English” complete with baked beans and black pudding for €27 while the Afternoon Tea (€30) comes with scones and clotted cream—another delicacy that I grew up on.

But as a proud Brit, it’s my duty to point out that not all the dishes fully align with my gastronomic roots. For example, the Sunday lunch menu (€45) certainly sounds tempting with “Charolais beef sirloin, flavored pork meatball, roasted potatoes and vegetables, Yorkshire pudding, apple compote, served with a red wine sauce, English mustard, and horseradish sauce.” Any true blooded “roast beef” knows that apple sauce is reserved for roast pork—and would never be served on the same plate as beef, Charolais or not.

Equally, the Marlow Pie (€26) I chose as my main course was, shall we say, questionably “British.” The pastry topped pie filled with mushrooms and cheese sauce, was memorable, but for me, it just didn’t feel quite right. When I asked the waiter what was in the filling, it all became clear: “Champignons de saison avec une sauce au cheddar, miel et noix,” he replied. What?! Cheddar with honey? For a cheddar-loving Brit like me, that’s almost sacrilegious. The only thing I’d ever consider pairing with our national treasure is a Branston pickle. However, my lunch companion thought the combination was delicious, so perhaps it’s an English thing. He went for the fish and chips with mushy peas option (€32), which was outstanding: fish perfectly cooked in batter, with none of the greasy aftertaste that typically stains the newspaper from which we often eat this British delicacy back home.

The pièce de résistance—or should I say showstopper—was the dessert, a French take on the famous Eton Mess classic. The origins of this delicious mixture of crushed meringue, strawberries and whipped cream dates back to the early 19th century at one of the UK’s most prestigious public schools. Eton College. The story goes that the pudding was first served after a school cricket match, when the meringue, fruit and cream were all mixed together after the meringue had been dropped on the floor. Marlow’s Eton Mess (€13) was hands down the best I’ve ever had, with the hint of tonka bean taking it to new levels of deliciousness.

Overall, my Marlow experience was, while undoubtedly “So chic,” but not entirely “so British” to a Brit like me—was hugely enjoyable, and I’m already planning a revisit for the full English breakfast and another for Afternoon Tea. 

Marlow +377 98 06 14 00
Open every day from 8:30 and 11:30 pm.
Seating for 80 people inside, plus 60 on the terrace (open from April).

By Suzanna Chambers

Senior Editor

Suzanna is a former Fleet Street journalist who worked for The Sunday Times, The Telegraph, the Mail on Sunday and the Independent. She has lived in France for 20 years where she has carved a freelance career writing for UK, US and local publications. Meanwhile, her day job sees her leading the Communication, Marketing and Press team at Top Marques Monaco, a role she has held for ten years.